33 Days Baruntse Expedition

Destination: Khumbu, Eastern Nepal
Trip Dates: April / May or Sep / Oct
Cost: Varies: You may combine this climb with a warm-up on a non-technical peak like Mera or Island Peak, or use this peak as a warm-up for a technical peak like Ama Dablam or an eight-thousander. Check with us.
Guided: Yes
Difficulty: Challenging
Team Size: 4 – 10
Accommodation: Hotel (KTM), Tea House & Camping
Minimum Age: 16 Years
Highest Altitude: 7,129m

Trip Description
Baruntse (7,129m) is a mountain in the Khumbu region of eastern Nepal, crowned by four peaks and bounded on the south by the Hunku Glacier, on the east by the Barun Glacier, and on the northwest by the Imja Glacier. The mountain was first climbed in May 30, 1954 via the south ridge by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of a New Zealand expedition.

This is a beautiful mountain situated in the lap of Everest and Makalu in the Khumbu region. At 7,129m it is considered a semi-technical mountain but the extreme altitude and several exposed pitches near the summit will make this a very challenging climbing expedition.

The ascent route for Baruntse is through the southern ridge overhanging the famous West pass – this is in fact the traditional route opened by Hillary and Shipton in 1952. The regular approach begins at Lukla and takes you across the Hunku valley, one of the most fertile regions in Nepal, passing northward through a beautiful alpine environment. The walk passes through delightful Sherpa country and provides for excellent acclimatization.

The Baruntse base camp is at an altitude of around 5,300m and sits near the pristine lakes below Amphu Lapcha pass. The route then follows a long ridge leading to the summit. Generally, two camps are set up the approach above base camp for climbing. From the summit of this mountain presents incredible views of snowy mountains in the surroundings. An ascent of Baruntse is an adventure for climbers wishing to meet a true Nepalese 7,000m Peak.

Trip Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive Kathmandu (1,350m)
Kathmandu Guest House. A very warm welcome to the Kingdom of Himalayas. Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport our representative welcomes you and assists with the transfer your hotel in Thamel.

Day 2
Preparation and briefing for departure to Khumbu Region.

Day 3
Kathmandu – Lukla flight and Acclimatization (2,840m).

Day 4
Lukla to Chutanga (3,050m / 4hrs).

Day 5
Chutanga to Kharka tang Trek (3,900m / 6hrs).

Day 6
Khartitang to Kote Trek (3,600m / 6hrs).

Day 7
Kote to Dargnak (4,350m / 4hrs).

Day 8
Rest and acclimatization day in Dargnak.

Day 9
Dargnak to Khare (5,045m / 4hrs).

Day 10
Rest and acclimatization day in Khare.

Day 11
Khare to Mera La Camp (5,300m / 4hrs).

Day 12
Mera La Pass to Seto Pokhari (5,035m / 6hrs).

Day 13
Seto Pokhari Camp to Baruntse BC (5,300m / 6hrs).

Day 14 – 24
Baruntse Summit Climbing Period.

Day 25
Clean Base Camp and prepare for return.

Day 26
Baruntse Base Camp to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp (5,650m / 5hrs).

Day 27
Amphu Lapcha South BC to Amphu Lapcha North BC (5,300m / 6hrs).

Day 28
Amphu Lapcha BC to Pangboche (3,930m / 7hrs).

Day 29
Pangboche to Namche Bazaar (3,440m / 3hrs).

Day 30
Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2,800m / 6hrs).

Day 31
Fly Back to Kathmandu.

Day 32: Kathmandu
Kathmandu Guest House. Kathmandu is the historical and cultural heart of Nepal and has been a popular destination for tourists ever since Nepal opened its doors to visitors. The city presents a wonderful mix of Hinduism, Tibetan Buddhism and Western influence in the Valley.
– Boudhanath Stupa with its 40m dome is one of the world’s largest Stupa and is generally acknowledged to be the most important Tibetan Buddhist monument outside of Tibet.
– Pashupatinath Temple is considered one of the holiest shrines of all the Hindu Temples. The temple has remained the presiding deity of ruling Nepalese Royalty.
– Swayambhunath 3km west of the city is one of the world’s most glorious Buddhist Stupas – it is said to be 2,000 years old. Visitors often call it the “Monkey Temple”.
Tonight, we will have a celebration dinner to commemorate our journey.

Day 33: Depart Kathmandu
Today we will be transferred to the airport for our departure flight.

Your itinerary includes:

• 4 nights hotel accommodation in KTM including breakfast at Kathmandu Guest House or equivalent. Single rooms are usually available at an additional cost. Please inform us early if you wish to have a single room or you wish to extend your stay.
• One day sightseeing tour in and around KTM – includes Boudhanath the largest Buddhist Stupa in the world, Pashupatinath the oldest Hindu temple in Kathmandu and Swayambhunath the famous Monkey temple.
• Domestic flight for Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu.
• Mt. Baruntse climbing permit from South-West ridge (Normal route)
• Sagarmatha National Park Entry fee, Makalu Barun National Park Fee & Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entrance Fee & all government taxes.
• One locally made waterproof duffel bag will be provided for the climb.
• Necessary number of porters and yak to carry expedition loads.
• Liaison officer fee.
• Base camp manager.
• One Sherpa climbing guide who has climbed Baruntse and other 8,000m peaks.
• Well trained cook and kitchen boys at BC.
• Climbing Sherpa (1:2 ratio) especially on summit day. Useful if you have no prior expedition experience as this increases your safety and success for summit.
• All necessary climbing hardware gear with fix rope.
• All necessary camping and kitchen gear.
• Private tent at BC with mattress.
• Well set up double-skinned group dining tent with gas heaters.
• Toilet & Shower tents at BC.
• All meal & drinks during expedition (3 times a day).
• High quality high-altitude tents.
• Necessary number of EPI gas with burner.
• VHF radios set to each client with radio accessories.
• Solar panel/generator at base camp for recharging & power supply.
• Emergency oxygen at BC.
• Insurance for climbing Sherpa and staff.
• All pick up & drop transportation from airport to airport both domestic & international.
• Occasional alcoholic beverage will be provided at BC only after the trip.
• Celebration meal in Kathmandu after the expedition with all local staffs at Everest summiteers club restaurant, Rum Doddle.
• 13 weeks membership at The Altitude Gym (worth $325)

Not included:

• International airfares.
• Personal Travel Insurance – medical, helicopter rescue and repatriation is obligatory.
• Emergency evacuation.
• Personal expenses e.g. phone calls, laundry, alcoholic beverages, mineral/bottled water, charges for showers, battery charging and wireless internet fee in tea houses.
• Nepal Visa fees (USD50 available on entry and valid for 30 days) and passport photo.
• Excess baggage above 15kg will be charged at USD15 per kg.
• Additional accommodation in KTM for early arrival, late departure or early return from mountain (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
• Personal Trekking and Climbing Gear – climbing gear may be hired in Kathmandu
• Tipping to guide and local staff. (Minimum summit bonus of USD300 recommended)

Trekkers can contact us at any time for any concerns that they may have about the trip.